Living on the Hard

The first steps on a boat that has been sitting for six months could be chocking. Especially when you left your boat in the water and the marina hauled it out as one the first boats ever hauled out. When I returned to the marina, ten days ago, at 9:30pm, I stepped into a flooded cabin. The batteries were dried and shut, as a result, the bilge pump stop working and rainwater down the mast and other leaks flooded the inside of the boat. Luckily, the water was lower than the engine. I was pumping out water and cleaning till early morning hours.

Turtle Cay Boat Yard

The way it seems, Earthling will remain on land for at least 3 more weeks. Turtle Cay Marina has a beautiful boatlift, that is not working, it never has been working in this marina. They must order a crane to come in and put the boats in the water. This is a new marina, remote from anywhere. Closest village is down the curvy dirt road in the rainforest to the main road, and then another ten minutes drive to Nombre De Dios. The first big city, for provisioning and boat parts is Colon. You can take a chicken bus from Nombre De Dios to Colon, but you might sit next to passengers that are holding a chicken on their lap! It makes it all more adventures. Finding boat parts in Panama is not as easy as walking into a major chandlery in the U.S. Even though there are a few chandleries, but if they don’t carry what you looking for, you can’t really order it either! You have to search to find things! That requires going to Panama City, which is 2-3hrs drive from the marina. The best option for me was to rent a car from the airport and gather supplies and do a major provisioning. Otherwise, things would have taken much longer time. I purchased "Petit Trinidad" antifouling paint, but they didn’t have it in red so I had to buy it in black at the highest price ever. After a few days of searching, I found good deals on 4DM batteries, but I still haven’t been able to find fuel filters!

  

Settled Base 

There is a list of projects that I hope to accomplish before start cruising again. 

The list is long and it goes by priority. Before getting launched, everything below has to be done, such as getting the bottom ready for paint. Which includes scraping off the barnacle shells and lightly sand the hull. The keel has to be faired, since we hit reefs in Kuna Yala. A friend of mine lost his boat 3 weeks ago on a reef in San Blas. The Garmin charts are "off" in this area and sailors must keep a careful outlook. In our case we were lucky! Furthermore, two stern through-hulls leak and must be re-caulked. The propeller and shaft have to be cleaned and new zinc put on. Then everything is ready to apply the bottom paint. After that, the top of the hull needs to be polished and waxed. 

Priority number two is to service the engine, which includes changing fuel filters, oil filter, and oil. I must also take apart and clean the starter from rust debris. In addition, the starter solenoid must be replaced since we’ve experienced difficulties starting the engine before. Also, the auto syphon must be inspected since it sprays out too much water.

The next priority is to recaulk the stanchions and shroud fittings, a job that needs four hands! And then there are zillions of other small things to do. This part of "Cruising Life Style" is not as pretty as it looks on the pictures of white sandy beaches with palm trees. But I have to admit, this marina’s location is just like heaven, there are two long beautiful beaches just by here and there are monkey families living up the trees not far from the boat. It’s as isolated as it can get on a deserted Island. 

The tent is setup and utilized as storage area, last time we used it in Barbuda

Love from Turtle Cay Marina in Panama

Deserted Paradise, Los Roques

Just a Little Patch of Sand is All You Need to Be Happy

This is one of the wonders in the Caribbean well worth to visit. This place is like the big brother to Tobago Cays. In the Los Roques National park, there are 300+ small islands, sand dunes, and patches of land in the middle of nowhere. You can find hundreds of deserted anchorages, where you snorkel off your boat and explore underwater world. This is a remote destination for wealthy Venezuelans, there are no ferries or cruise lines, the only way to get here is to fly your personal jet or take one of the small airplanes from Caracas or Margarita or the Earthling sailor way. This place is so untouched that one could wonder around for a long time before getting tired. In matter of fact next time my path goes by here, I will spend an extended period goggling around Los Roques.

Socialists with private jets, hmm!?

Venezuelan Yachters

The Lagoon Anchorage

It was nerve-racking to enter this area! All you see approaching from east is two large boats that are sitting on the reefs and they have been sitting there for a long time. It’s difficult to see the reefs if you are entering from east at sunset and a reliable GPS system is vital. Thanks to the Garmin, everything is precise. It’s helpful to have someone stay on the bow to spot out reefs. We anchored right pass the long reef and It feels like being in the middle of the blue marble. It reminds me of Antigua’s Nonsuch Bay and Tobago Cays. The wind is constantly blowing and charging the batteries through the wind generator. All you hear is 8-10 ft waves clashing on the reefs as we are sitting in a calm waters a few hundred feet from them. The water is different shades of blue, green, and brown. As the clouds cover the sun and sway around the sky all the colors gradually change to a lighter or darker shade. This is part of paradise that only a few visit, I hope you can see it if you wish so!

Approaching Grand Roque

Los Roques Archipelago

What am doing? Just absorbing!

The Town in Grand Roque

The main Island and the only town is Grand Roque. That’s where the airport, stores, and civilization is! When you enter this town, specially if you have been at sea for awhile, it feels like going back in time! The architecture is Spanish/Mediterranean, the roads and streets are all sand, there are no cars, and during fiesta 2-5pm, it can literally be a ghost town. People walk around barefoot and there are lots of kids. Many of the houses on Grand Roque are Posadas (guest houses). Historically, locals have been hospitable to outsiders. In Chris Doyle’s Cruising Guide book from early 90’s, it says that the locals can make food and even give you a place to sleep if you need it. Now that has changed to charming elegant Posadas. All of them have a bar and kitchen for their guest and reservations can be made for dinning in. Some of the Posadas are absolutely magnificent and peaceful, decorated with pretty flowers and open ceilings and doors! At the Posadas you will find people that speak fluent English but it is useful to know basic Spanish.

Inside a Posada

Side Street

Indulging Arepas, a typical Venezuelan dish

Katherine is so excited, she is up in the air

If you are visiting Venezuela with US Dollars, make sure to negotiate the exchange rate. At the bank the rate is 4 Bolivares to $1 and in the stores you will get anything from 12 to 25 Bolivares. Therefore things can become very affordable for cruisers with foreign currency. We stock up with local beer, Solera, $11 per 24 case in can, cheapest so far in the Caribbean. Everything is made in Venezuela, even if it’s not made here, it will be labeled as if it was! 
The only hills are on the main island. They are visible from miles away and really easy to hike up to, where you get an excellent view over the archipelago. I’ve always wanted to visit Venezuela and for now this is all the taste I get from this country.

View the complete photo album of Venezuela here

Love Venezuela 

Rocks and Reefs

Photo taken from Chris Doyle's Leeward Islands

A few weeks before Earthling sailed to Antigua, I went over the charts and saw a beautiful land, shaped with many nice coves and protected anchorages. At that time, we were anchored in an uncomfortable rolly anchorage somewhere else and could not wait to be in a calm and comfortable place. It has been 20 days since we got here to Antigua and we have almost sailed around the island and anchored in various places. Almost everywhere we anchored has been comfortable.

Right now we are in Nonsuch bay and this anchorage definitely exceeded my expectations. There is no land in front of us but we are protected by natural break walls, reefs.  As you surf in on the north entrance of Nonsuch bay on 8-10 ft swells, you see them breaking over a long line of reefs. Behind the reefs, the water is almost flat. This bay is very large and there is room for thousands of boats to anchor. In addition, there are mooring balls available free of charge.

Kelly Standing on the Devil's Bridge

Now that the outboard is working, exploring has less limitations. Yesterday, we took the dinghy to Devil’s Bridge on the north east side of Nonsuch bay. This is a place worth seeing. It’s a 25ft cliff where the rock on one side is divided from the other and the swells go underneath, like a bridge. According to Devon, a local we met there; in the old days, slaves tried to flee from the island and would come here, where they realized there was no more land and would fall off into the sea from the crashing waves. Which is how they got the name Devil’s Bridge.


Antigua’s northern and eastern coast is lined by reefs. Some of the channels bringing you through these reefs can be tricky and thrilling. On our way from Jumby Bay by Long Island to Nonsuch Bay we went through Bird Island Channel. Imagine, you are in 30-40ft of water and suddenly it drops down to 10ft and you have coral heads sticking out of the water a few feet from you. Now, the swells are coming against you, lifting you up and down and at one point the depth shows a foot below keel! That is nerve racking. I would not recommend this channel if you are on a larger boat and draw more than 6ft. I don’t know if I dare going through it again!!
  
Our visit in Antigua will last a few more days and the next Island waiting for us is Guadeloupe.

Love from Rocks and Reefs


Check out the photo album of Antigua on Earthling's fb page