S/V Earthling: Grenadines

Saline Beach

In the last seven days, Earthling has been to three destinations in the Grenadines, Canouan, Mayreau, and Tobago Cays! These tiny Islands are just a few miles from each other and still so different.

The anchorage in Charlestown Bay, Canouan is large enough for many boats. Tamarind hotel and resort is just a row away and their open WIFI is great, but the local beers cost twice as much than regular bars. So we used the internet and passed on having any beer! Canouan is a beautiful island but some of its people have been defaced by the couple resorts and a casino that have been built here. Areas on this island such as Mountain Royal is fenced off by the resort and casino and you can’t hike up the mountain unless you are a guest. This creates a tension for people that are born and have lived here all their life. If I was from here and suddenly a part of the Island would be fenced off by outsiders, I would be frustrated as well! I would be concerned if the outsiders would take over the rest of my Island! That issue can change the culture of inhabitants of a certain place.

At Charlestown Bay anchorage we got to know some cool cruisers such as Pat and Colleen on “Cool Change”. They invited us for sunset drinks on their catamaran and special Earthling Conch fritters were prepared and brought on as a snack!

Windward, Canouan

Mayreau has two anchorages, the more pretty one is Salt Whistle bay. It’s small, but scenic. Saline is the other good place to anchor, it’s bigger, closer to town and less rolly. There is a good trail that goes around the Island by several deserted beaches and it’s an easy hike. Fruit trees are absent on both Mayreau and Canouan. All foods, vegetables, and fruits are brought in from the main Island, St. Vincent. However, many locals engage their time in fishing, which is the major industry along with tourism.

In Salt Whislte bay we got connected with Richard and Medina, who run “The Last Bar Before The Jungle”. They have been friendly, loving, and giving to us. Richard is an excellent cook and made various meals for us the last few days. He has learned some of his cooking skills from Owen Mackintosh, who got married last weekend. Katherine and I were invited to the rehearsal and reception. It was a pleasant experience to celebrate and party with the locals, great food and drinks were served for everyone both nights. In general, the citizens of Mayreau are one of the friendliest. Approximately 400 people live here; there are seven cars, four scooters, no airport, no cruise lines, and therefore less traveled! One of the four wheelers on the Island is Richard’s and he has been kind enough to let us borrow it to go to town and play around. Even dogs are well behaved and friendly here. The whole time walking around the Island we had at least one dog escorting us and sometimes for hours. Richard says “dogs in Mayreau, they are like humans”!

Tobago Cays

The four of us, Katherine, Medina, Richard, and I sailed Earthling to the Tobago Cays National Park, which should not be missed by anyone sailing these waters. Snorkeling is “best” as my friends Marty & Donna Hastings noted in the guide book being used on Earthling now - Rest In Peace Marty!

We have seen sharks, stingrays, big turtles, old conch, blow fish, and tons of other fish while snorkeling. The water surrounding us is crystal clear and has many layers of blue, which reminds me of the Exuma Islands in the Bahamas.

BBQ on Petite Bateau

Last night all of us were invited to a local beach BBQ on the unpopulated Island of Petit Bateau. Mandy and his family have been working and running services for boaters in the Cays for many years. They put an outstanding dinner together for this group of Earthlings! We were served steamed conch, grilled guar fillets, roasted potatoes, fried plantains and a fruit bowl for desert.